I have the same issue on my 2017 TRDORP on the driver front door. I am looking to order the replacement motor before following the awesome instructions provided. When I pull up the eBay link, there are two options for the flat shaft motors, 10mm and 20mm. Which one is needed?
Thanks!!

If you go this route, make sure it is working before you close the door and put the panel on. My first one I did perfect but my next one I messed up. Luckily I didn’t put the panel on so I was able to break apart the housing and release it with a screw driver. I needed to buy a actuator from rock auto anyways. If I do it again, I am buying the whole thing from rock auto instead of replacing the small piece that fails.

I only get one result when I search for that a 10mm. From the image it looks like a 10mm. If you are in doubt just buy the 20mm and cut/grind it down if you need too.

Couple bucks more but:
Amazon.com: 10mm Flat Shaft Central Door Lock Actuator Motor FC-280PC-22125 FLAT SHAFT, D Spindle, Power Locking Repair Engine: Home Improvement

Many thanks to the OP - This thread helped me out immensely!

I Finally got this done on ‘The Boss Lady’s 2013 4R ... just in time to sell it. I’d only been sitting on the new motors for a year and a half or so - I guess I was just dreading having to get into the door ... that black tar, yuck.

Surprisingly, this wasn’t a bad repair - I should have done it sooner.

Thanks again for a great write up and the photos.

Major props and a huge thank you for such an excellent write up. I was able to fix my driver side door in about an hour and it works great!!

I haven't experienced any issues yet, but would like to order some as spare parts in the event they abruptly fail so I can fix it immediately since my vehicle is parked outside.

It seems this only happens on the front driver and passenger doors. Do the rear doors have this issue as well? If so, are the motors the same for all doors or are they side-specific?

it does happen to the rear just not as frequently

Hey! Ran across this thread while sitting at the dealership for another issue and they told me it would be $600 to be able to unlock my door remotely again... Great write up, bought an actuator from Amazon for $32 and the repair went great but had the same issue as above and can't get it corrected. Any trick to getting the door handle rod lined up in the actuator? It seems like I will have it but then when I tighten the torx screws it comes out. I have taken everything apart and re-installed about four times to no avail (the good thing is I can take the door panel off and on in about three minutes lol). Any tips to getting it lined up? Not a huge deal, I hardly ever use the key to open the lock and if I got in a bind could unlock from the back but still... I want it done right. Also, when I open the door it moves a little bit and makes a sound almost like its not lined up right. Any ideas are greatly appreciated!

Glad to hear you found this thread and has helped you (at least on the money savings part)!

As for lining up the rod into the latch/tumbler, if you remove that grommet, you'll be able to look inside the door and see where the rod meets up with the physical mechanism. It's kind of a funny shape (if I recall correctly) and the rod has a little jog in it. Just make sure you get that bottom piece into the hole on the internal mechanism, and I think you'll be fine. I'll see if I can pull the grommet in a few and take some pics for you so you know what to look for.

Has anyone tried this on other Toyotas/lexus they own? My lexus hasn't failed yet but other members in the group has had it fail and those p*ssies don't get dirt under their finger nails and pay 600 for the stealership to put a new one in.

I would think they all may be the same. Just wondering.

2 years old that is crazy

But the procedure to fix is pretty standard as I have done this repair on several other vehicles of all makes and brands... But they are usually 10 years old or more before this issue arises

This is the route I just went. Ordered a couple just now for my fiancé’s 2017 4Runner. They’ve been out too long and I just randomly googled and found this info on the forum!!

Thank you for this awesome write up and all the details, OP!

We’re tackling this in a couple days and will report or victory. 🥳

Well, I’m back to report as promised! Success! We replaced both front door lock actuator motors. Only took a couple hours to do both but I think I need to take the driver side out again. The key doesn’t work from the outside. When the actuator was taken apart, there seemed to be a piece that was out of place but we just left it but thinking back, I’m guessing that’s what is causing the key issue. Hmm...

Thank you so much for this write up and all the info. The links to the products and the videos were SO HELPFUL!

Attached Images

     

Hey, you don't have to open up the door to get the key working... search for some other posts with pics, but briefly...
On the side of the door there is a (black on mine) plastic plug... pull that out, and there's a Torx fitting inside... unscrew that all the way (it's captive, won't fall out/down)
and then the key mechanism on the outside of the door falls out, in your hand hopefully. You can then re-insert that mechanism so that the actuating (?) rod is where it's supposed to be. Then tighten the torx, put the plug in. Easy.

I suggest you search for the posts, don't trust me, because I don't.... just a quick note from memory to save you some work.
HTH

I got the drivers door actuator installed. Weird issue. Before putting the panel back on, with everything hooked up, I tried the interior manual lock. It does not stay locked manually, always snaps back to unlock. Works properly as long as power button or fob is used. Linkage looks correct. ny thoughts?